Puppy DaySchool Training
Monday thru Friday, 7:30 am to 5 pm
3119 Vicente Street between 42nd and 43rd Avenue
Monday thru Friday 7:30am to 5pm
Drop off: 7:30 to 9:00 am
Pick up: anytime before 5pm
Ask about recommendations for pick up and drop off service.
Basic Obedience, Alone Time/Crate-Training, Potty Training, Biting, Aggression Prevention
- Exposure to people and life experiences
- Acceptable mouth habits
- Good play habits with people and other puppies
- House manner Practice: we practice good house habits and prevent bad ones from ever starting.
- "Let's GO POTTY" potty training
- Alone time - I am ok being on my own
- Domestic Dog Husbandry
5 days weekly
5 days/week, 4 consecutive weeks
(a total of 20 sessions) $1850.
3 days weekly
3 days/week, 4 consecutive weeks
(a total of 12 sessions) $1320.
1 add-on day: $100 | 4 add-on days: $340
To provide our clients with more flexibility, add-on days can be purchased to be used with the 3 days Program before the puppy’s scheduled graduation day.
- Pup must begin program between 8 and 13 weeks. Pups over 13 weeks require training intake.
- Pup must be able to spend time in crate.
- Pup must be in your home for at least 7 days before starting school - no exceptions.
- Vaccinations: at least one distemper and one Parvo (the D & P in DHLLP) and one Bordatella given at least 7 days prior to the first day in program.
- Fecal test within 7 days of the first day of school.
- Due to Recent Outbreak of Canine Influenza in the Bay Area:
All puppies are REQUIRED to have received at least the first Canine Flu vaccine before the first day in program. Please consult your veterinarian.
- Pup must be in the care of a local veterinarian and have had its first health exam within 7 days prior to first day in program.
- Uncertain or have questions about health requirements? Email us at firstname.lastname@example.org
Please note the enrollment process can take up to 7 business days from the day you send in the application form to the first day of school, and it can take longer when we have a wait list. Please contact us as soon as you know the date your puppy comes home.
Monday to Friday: 8:30 am - 5:30 pm
Saturday: 9:00 am - 11:00 am
A Day At SmartyPup! DaySchool
Puppies are trained in groups with a reward-based program and will have multiple people involved. Basic training includes rewards for good behavior such as potty in the right place and playing well with other pups and people, basic commands such as sit, stay, drop, come, up, off, proper greetings, etc..
Alone Time & Nap time: "I am o.k. being on my own."
Puppies sleep over 18 hours a day. To have a worthwhile day of activities, puppies must have a designated nap time. Daily naps also promote a sleep schedule imperative for early training. Puppies sleep in comfortable clean crates, while a staff member watches and listens. Crates will be closed so that pups will learn that being in their crate is okay. While puppies are playing, crates are kept open most of the day for puppies who want to nap at any time.
Play time: "Weeeeeeee"
Allows puppies to interact with one another and explore new-comers. Puppies expend energy and are exposed to different breeds of dogs and kinds of people in a safe place. There will always be someone present to watch over them.
Group Play, Confidence Building and Training: "I get along with others (well most of the time), I am learning to be brave, and I like to try and learn things!"
Game play promotes puppies interacting with one another and people, and helps to sharpen their listening skills and social behavior. Games such as follow the leader, name and recall practice with rewards and obstacle courses help to foster confidence, and trust in humans. Game play also strengthens basic training and helps puppies to learn how to use their minds in different ways.
Exposure and Handling
In the first months of a puppy’s life, exposure is the most important source of information for their lives. For this reason, exposure to different and “scary” things is the crux of early socialization. Puppies will be exposed to people from all walks of life, doing all sorts of things . . . people in hats, LOTS of children, big cardboard boxes, skateboards,, walkers, wheelchairs, and many other things. Exposure works by rewarding puppies for proper behavior while they experience new stimuli which leads to adult dogs that are not reactive or afraid when they experience something unfamiliar. Exposure also includes tactile desensitizing, such as playing with puppies’ paws, opening their mouths, etc. Desensitization is one of the most important parts of exposure and will make the everyday parts of life with your dog much easier.
The Core of the SmartyPup! DaySchool Program.
Here is what we think matters most. We are here to help get it right, but we can't do it without you!
Socialization is no joke! It’s very important. MORE IMPORTANT than almost anything else, and so we have it first. What good is bite inhibition, handling, sits, downs, anti-jump, if your dog is so petrified of, or aggressive towards people that it never gets to see any. Get the point? Start by taking puppy everywhere with you that you can. Once doggie is on the ground walking around, let him experience new places and things in a positive context. Don’t protect him from strange approaching things, but try to help him view them as pleasant. GIVE LOTS OF TREATS while socializing, and always do the “jolly routine” around new places and people. Places to get bang for your buck include: next to a schoolyard of screaming children(approach slowly) malls and shopping centers, fairs, public markets and dog parks( some non peak hours to start). When people ask to pet your irresistibly cute pup, ask them to give her a treat-ask if they want to HOLD him/her and you feed your pup treats Not only do strangers become acceptable, they become WONDERFUL, because they bring FREE TREATS! WAHOO!
THE KEY IS VOLUME AND VARIETY of people, places, things, noises, lights, crowds, etc!
Puppies naturally bite. This is the time, while their jaws are not fully developed, that they can learn that pressure of a certain strength hurts human skin and other dogs. We don’t want to stop them from biting entirely at this stage. Instead we want to start by providing them with feedback, information about the strength of their jaws with those little razor sharp puppy teeth.
Begin the first week by targeting just the hardest bites of all with an a loud “OWWW”. This should startle the puppy and interrupt their biting. If they get excited and bite more, follow the “oww” with a time out (2 minute social isolation). You must do this consequence consistently to see results. The following week, begin targeting the next hardest bites in the same fashion. Each week allow only softer and softer mouthing, until by the fourth week you are phasing out all biting entirely, targeting all biting with an “oww” followed by a time out.
Your puppy should have handling exercises done 1-2x every day. Work them into a regular schedule. Every time you are lying around petting and cooing about what a cute puppy she is, be sure to handle her ALL OVER and pair that with treats and praise. “ I touch your paws, and feel your toes…you get a treat. I flip over your ears and stick my finger inside, you get a treat”. Concentrate on the ears, mouth(inside and out), paws, and tail. Have friends and visitors do these exercises as well, it helps her to be happy about everyone touching her-including strangers (like the vet and kids-see where we are going with this!) Just because your pup is happy about it now, doesn’t mean she/he will be fine with it as an adult, unless you proactively address this. If you ask someone who has problems like this with their dog as an adult, they will most likely say that the dog was “Great as a puppy”,
Puppies love to jump. When you think puppy… you think jumpy. It is how they display affection, initiate and engage in play, get attention, and just plain have fun. Sadly pups don’t have too many ways TO get our attention—all methods available to a pup are unacceptable in our human world, i.e, jumping, barking, biting…what is a dog left with? Sit? Quiet? Down? Chewing on a bone? Do those behaviors initiate attention form you? For example: “Shhhhhhhhh, the puppy is sitting don’t say anything because then he will jump.” The pup is stuck between a rock and a hard place. And to complicate matters even more, people you meet on the street don’t mind a cute 12 week old puppy jumping up. No fair! We have a hard time training our pup not to jump up as most people your pup jumps up on will say “ thats ok, I don’t mind or its just a puppy”. And it just gets worse! When you do try to train your dog not to jump, the person on the street or at the park will look at you as if your poor pup is being abused by the Wicked Witch of the West. They plead “it’s just a pu—uppy”. Yep, you are in a tough situation. What to do what to do? Take it from a dog training professional; LIE. Truly it is the only way.
What seems cute now will not be cute when the puppy becomes a dog and the behavior becomes potentially dangerous to others and to the dog himself! Think carefully about how you would like your dog to be 6 months from now. The best way to combat jumping up is to deny the dog exactly what they are seeking when they jump up, which is ATTENTION! When puppy jumps up, simply turn your back and take a step away, staring at ceiling, as if to say “I can’t see you when you do that” watch from the corner of your eye for them to approach and not jump, give them attention only for 4 paws on the floor or a “sit”. Constantly manipulate your reaction to give appropriately timed feedback to the pup on what he is doing. A sort of “Jekyll & Hyde” greeting ritual- “I pet and coo when you sit, and immediately ignore you if you jump”
Foundation RECALL and Name Game:
The most important thing to remember starting now is: Don’t call your puppy to you for anything your pup might find unpleasant!! I.e., bath, nail clipping, pleaving the park, or heaven help you-Punishing them. Go to them and get them if you must do something unpleasant. Practice calling “come” when you have something exciting and fun for them… like a walk, or their dinner, or a treat, a new toy, etc.
This is a nice way to train your dog to go to their “spot” as well as moving them off and on things and into and out of things, like the sofa and cars. Practice “here” and point with your finger as you throw a morsel of food into the space where you want your dog to go. You can use specific words for specific items if you like. For example say “car” and point, throw morsel into car, or lure dog with morsel and give it to them when they get in the car. Or “mat” and throw morsel onto their mat. Don’t forget to praise them once they are in the “spot”, “car” or “mat”.
Don’t forget to praise excitedly and often. Notice when your pup sits on her own, and praise her for it. Tell your puppy how cute they are when they sit for strangers, and how fluffy they are while you handle them. Notice the GOOD THINGS. Give instructive information to your dog. If they are getting into something, instead of just saying “NO!”, get their attention with their name and simply call them away from the object. Redirect them onto something else more appropriate. Make up cute songs to praise them with. Remember there is a direct relationship between how silly you look doing it and how well it is working. I look like the silliest fool in the world praising my dog and she thinks I am the greatest! (she tells me this)
Lots of them. Anything and everything the puppy can put in his mouth should be exchanged for food rewards and attention.